30th April Gloucestershire

I'm staying at my mothers for this week definitely appreciating a resting up period. I rang the local doctors surgery for advice about who I should see in relation to my various aches and pains and was directed to a chiropracter. She gave me the once over and the good news is that I won't do any more damage by carrying on walking. The bad news is that when I get back I need to get a referral to an orthopaedic surgeon in relation to my big toe joint cos it's causing me to walk strangely putting undue pressure on the ankles and knees and so on and so forth. In the meantime it's Ibuprofen and ice packs. I've got a massage booked for Saturday for the shoulders.

I had a long chat with Pam (Parkinson) and Richard (Peters) yesterday to discuss plans for next week. I'm meeting up with them in Birmingham on Monday and we get an early flight out on Tuesday to Biarritz and if the onward transport fits we should be in St Jean for lunch. We're hoping to stay in a private refuge on Tuesday that provides a convivial communal evening meal and breakfast. They don't officially take bookings but if we or Mo can get there by 2pm to stake our claim we should be OK.

We have sensibly decided not to try to get to Roncevalles on Day 1 of the Spanish leg but to break the journey at Refuge Orisson. This is only 8 km but involves the steepest climb. That way we can leave leisurely late morning and let the early risers get their head start to Roncevalles. Orisson is already booked up but we can have a tent with matresses and all the extra covers we might need.

I've been checking out with phone provider how to update blog without running up huge bills. Seems I can type in notebook on phone offline and then copy and paste into blog when ready. Uses a fraction of MBs that way so I'll give it a whirl. Also need to turn off Data Roaming except when need access to Internet. Otherwise all sorts of Apps are accessing the Internet without asking me first. Voilà!

27th April Birmingham New Street Station!

Here's Jenny back in Blighty pour une semaine. Got to get French out of the system now and do some intensive swotting up of Spanish ready for next week.

It is such a luxury to be able to update the blog anywhere and any time using the iPhone. It turned out to be far too expensive to use in France. I wonder what system our follower 'Kiwi Nomad' used for her comprensive blog in 2009? There is so much missing because of the long intervals and inevitably the moment passes. But huge thank you to Chris for uploading the photos which help fill the gaps.

I spent last night in an inelegant hotel near the airport in Biarritz. It turned out to be 2km from the airport but on a major dual carriageway with very scary fast traffic whipping up a wind past me as the sole nutty pedestrian. But I have just walked 500km through France so I was darned if I was going to get a taxi to take me a puny 2km! Definitely the most dangerous undertaking of the journey so far.

I've had many thoughts as to whether interrupting the pilgrimage at this point will affect the flow. It takes time to walk into the right frame of mind and more single minded pilgrims would say that doing the Camino in bits (which many people do) does not provide the same contemplative experience. But I'm pleased to have this small break and reflect on the last few weeks. My body is certainly grateful for a rest! I found sitting in the plane excruciating. Just couldn't keep still as I'm so used to being on the move. All my muscles are aching - it seems worse when I'm not moving.

Having experienced the pilgrim frenzy in St Jean, it is clear that the Spanish part of the journey is going to be a whole new ball game. More people, more nationalities, more communal living and more refuges/gites to choose from. So it feels good to me to punctuate it with a gap. Gives me a chance to offload more stuff. One set of clothes to walk in and one to change into. The more stuff you have the harder it is to keep track of in communal sleeping arrangements.

The last refuge in St Jean was a nightmare. People getting up from 4am onwards in order to beat the crowds and get up and over the Pyrenees in order to ensure a bed at the monastry in Roncevalles. Apparently, there are 150 beds - all in the same room no doubt. Mo and I were last to leave feeling absolutely shattered and feeling so relieved that we weren't scheduled to get over the mountain on that particular day!

As for me - Mo - I was picked up by Sharon and Paul and taken to Pamploma to spend a week in an appartment and hang out, walking, eating, sightseeing. Such a break from the daily routine of arriving at a destination, finding food, a bed and then a bed and food options for the following day. Not much time to say much on blogs. So it was photos every day from Jenny texted to Chris for him to keep the blog going. Throughout we have met people who have talked about the power of the camino and the coincidences that happen along the way. My coincidence is that my sister in law Kit happens to be in St Jean Pied de Port on 3rd May when I return to wait the return of the others. Kit is walking from the Atlantic to the Med. through the Pyrenees. Our itinerary was drawn up completely independently and we find ourselves in the same place at the same time. Make what you will.

I am beginning to realise that my French that was beginning to improve will be of little value in Spain. I am desperately learning basic phrases to get by. Sharon and Paul are helping and also ensuring that my walking muscles continue to work. Mo

Day 31 Ostabat - St Jean Pied de Port (21Km)

St Jean Pied de Port

We had a good days walking today - left about 9am and arrived at about 4.30pm. Everything has changed. The camino is an industry here! We went straight to the Accueil Pellerins and were allocated 2 bunks in a dormitory of 8. The others - an Italian couple, a Spanish girl and an Irish father and son are our room mates so far. They have all just arrived and will set off for Roncevalles tomorrow - a long mountainous and sometimes dangerous route. The Spanish girl who lives in the Findhorn Community in Scotland has got the most enormous sac as has the Italian fella. We have told them (us old hands!) that they won't manage and need to offload. I do feel really pleased that we have had this practice run to sort ourselves out.

The language spoken is now English - the more common tongue.

We are going to explore St Jeans for the evening. The refuge has no Kitchen faclities so we need to find some food!!

A demain ....

St Jean Pied de Port

Day 30 St Palais - Ostabat (only 10km)

A pic WITH the Basque

First roses in bloom

View from Ostabat

View from Ostabat

Pays Basque: view from the refuge

We arrived in Ostabat at about 1pm and checked in immediately at the refuge Maison Ospitalier which is in Ostabat Bas where all the sickly and infectious pilgrims used to be housed so they wouldn'nt infect the posher pilgrims 'en haut'.

The refuge at Ostabat: more people now because all the different routes in France converge here.

Having dumped the bags we ventured up high to the only restaurant in town for omelettes and salad - it was way past midi. But we also had the local Brebis (sheep's cheese) which this region is most famous for. The patron is a typical Basque - huge and brown and rugged with the half cocked french beret and braces pulling his trousers up round his chest. I wanted to take a photo but the iPhone had died through lack of charge and anyway it might have been a bit rude (may try later if I have the nerve).

It was THE most beautiful walk today - we really are in the foothills of the Pyrennees - the sun was shining and it was totally breathtaking. Quite a lot of steep climbing now and we are definitely feeling fitter. The latest ailment is Mo's swollen ankle so it's bandaged up to get us to St Jean Pieds de Port tomorrow (21Km) which is the halfway point and by all accounts the start of the camino proper through Spain.

Last night we stayed in a Franciscan Monastery where we were the only people apart from the volunteer warden (a great holiday job for the future methinks) in a 26 bed facility. The last monks left in 2007 and they had to sell the building. The local commune bought it and it is now managed by the Mairie. A beautiful building and garden and another memorable experience. The French warden regaled us with tales of the magic of the chemin - the german widower (who had promised his wife he would complete the chemin for her) sleeping in the next bunk who held her hand all night and thanked her profusely in the morning because he had spent time with his wife?? Apparently the Puenta del Reina is the place for the out of body experiences but, as ever, one has to remain 'open' or nothing happens. So we'll stay very open and tell all if anything interesting occurs. Seriously, Jackie was inpirational in her enthusiasm and did have have some telling tales to tell, not least that the period of reflection that the chemin offers inevitably can tell you something about yourself you need to find out (and some things you would rather not know!)

For the French speakers:-

"Tous les anciens pellerins de St Jacques vous le diront: on revient autre d'un tel voyage. Marcher deux mois dans la campagne ou marcher deux mois sure le chemin de Compostelle sont deux experiences totalement differentes. Ce chemin est vivant, 'chargé',parcouru par les energies, les joies, les prieres et les souffrances des centaines de milliers d'homme et femmes qui l'ont parcouru au cours des douze derniers siecles"

So there!!!!

Interior Chez Veronique

Day 30 Saubeterre - St Palais

Ancient stones marking the border of Paussenac in 1395 between the provinces of Bearn, Navarre and Soule.

Cold and wet: first time I've had to wear a coat for over 2 weeks

The Chambre d'hote 'chez Veronique' where we stayed last night.

Leaving Saubeterre

Day 29 Orthez - Saubeterre de Bearn

Rest stop - no pain au raisin today
cos we're trying to be good

We are in Saubeterre de Bearn and it's raining. Such a change after the red hot heat of yesterday. We were a bit pathetic today because we decided yesterday we wouldnt manage 24 km in the heat so we booked a taxi to take us to a halfway point so we could do a sensible 13km leisurely. Then the sun didn't shine after all. We arrived here at 2 pm and met a young German guy doing the chemin in reverse. He'd already done 28 km from Ostabat in the morning and was going to do the 24km to Orthez in the afternoon. Oh to be young! Anyway we gained brownie points (the St Jacques sort) by giving him a decent map to get there. The bibliotech and Cyberbase are both closed. There appears to be some kind of holiday going on here. But there is one bar open so ....

We are staying in a Chambre d'Hotes for Pellerins which is a quirky place run by alternative boho type folk so it feels easy.

Statue of St Jacques at L'hopital d'Orion

To get to Saubeterre - the only way is up

These are our signposts now:
borne de St Jacques

How we used to look (pilgrims)

We can see Saubeterre up there

No shortage of mistletoe

Day 28 Sault de Navailles - Orthez

New signage in Pyrenees Atlantic

We planned a short étape today so we could arrive in Orthez in time for lunch and have enough energy to look around this beautiful old town. Lunch proved to be one of those menus I have got to recount - Tarte au poireau (leek) with salad followed by lapin (rabbit again) au tomate with an amazing potato and courgette melange with loads of whole cloves of garlic in it. The food definitely seems to have a more Spanish influence now. Pudding was only stewed apple but with lovely crunchy bits in and served with creme chantilly. Rosé wine was thrown in all for 11.50 euros.

The refuge at Orthez

The absolute highlight of this mornings walk was the very first sighting of the Pyrennées in the distance with snow on them. It seems absolutely amazing that we have walked into such a new world of really hot sun, palm trees, snow capped mountains compared with the flat pine forests that we were traversing 3 days ago. It feels like a real achievement and makes the aches and pains, blisters and complete exhaustion all seem worthwhile.

Time to sightsee in Orthez. Le Pont Vieux

And the bridge from the other side

One of the problems in trying to update the blog is that we arrive at our destination so fatigued that we don't have the energy to look around. It is not always straightforward finding the Pilgrims Refuge (Refuge au Pellerins),especially if you arrive late and out of normal working hours. The refuges are uusally provided by the municipality (such is the esteem that the Chemin St Jacques is held) and there is a small charge or the option of a voluntary donation. The key can be collected at the Mairie or the Office de Tourisme. If the Association (Confraternité St Jacques) is active in the area the refuge will be well equipped with all sorts of thoughtful and useful extras like tea, coffee, oil, powdered milk, washing powder etc etc;

I have left Mo showering and recuperating in the refuge here in Orthez, which is situated in a very old building (previously Hotel de la Lune) - see photos and is accessed up a very ancient stone spiral staircase. It is an exceptionally evocative building to be staying in. More usually the refuges are terraced houses (maison du village). We may have other pellerins arriving there later as most people seem to do the 28km étape from Hagetmau to Orthez. We now know our what our limits are for a reasonably enjoyable and pain free day and less than 20km is our goal.

As a result we broke the journey last night by staying in a hotel at Sault de Navailles and we were both looking forward to a night of comparative luxury. It was the only possible stop in town so there were no alternatives. Suffice it to say we were disappointed. I will leave it to Mo to describe the details as she was more shocked by the dust and the dirty toilet than I was. I've stayed in worse places but the problem was our expectations were unrealistically raised during our walking dreams.

Maize (grown locally) and stored for animal feed

Interestingly, I thought staying in a different unknown place night after night would be one of the things I would find disturbing about this venture. I thought I would really miss my own bed. But that has not been a problem. It is surprising what you get used to and what becomes the norm; making the best of what's available and moving on. We have changed our routine in the last few days as the weather has got hotter. We now try and leave by 8.30am in the moring and get at least 12km under our belt before lunch. Pscyhologically and physically, this is working out much better for us.

The sign in book in the refuge. We would like to meet Hazel and Christopher Wyke from Oxford who go before us.

It is astounding that we are coming to the end of our 30 odd days of walking in France and the halfway point of the camino is nearly here. I am supposed to be returning to England for a week and Mo is staying in Pamplona before we start the Spanish lap at the beginning of May with Richard (Peters) and Pam (Parkinson) due to join us. However, I am not sure if the flights will be operating normally by then so, as ever, plans have to be made one day at a time .......

One last word on what a brilliant experience this has been to date, the journey of a life time with conversational french lessons thrown in. I've always loved France but I love it even more now. Plus I certainly know a whole lot more about it's people and geography by walking through it than I ever would have imagined in a previous life.

Ancient Pilgrim Path

Motorway protester. Ultreia!

En route

Sign on the door of the refuge in Orthez

Day 27 Hagetmau - Sault de Navailles 16km

Day 27: Hagetmau (pronounced Ajitmo) - Sault de Navailles (16km). We passed the border from Les Landes into Pyrennees Atlantique - spitting distance now from the Spanish border. The experience of moving rapidly through the seasons from the cold of winter, speeded up spring and now into early summer is very special.

Sign to remind us what we are doing

The coquille stone at Pont de la Reine

Info at le pont de reine

Pain au raisin elevenses

The river Le Louts and lavoire in Hagetmau

Leaving Hagetmau; palm trees now part of the scenery

We have passed so many of these (every village)
thought we should take a photo of one

Day 26: St Severs - Hajetmau

We are in Hagetmau refuge. Arrived yesterday and had to collect key from La Cite Verte (sporting complex) where there was a piscine. So we were in like a shot to use different muscles and support aching ones. We are both suffering with various physical ailments - the relentless nature of the chemin takes its toll. So it's getting increasingly hard to arrive some place, find accommodation and food and muster up the energy to find Internet facilities too. Have a shorter day tomorrow and may find something in Orthez. Despite physical hardships, the experience is phenomenal - walking south through the awakening spring. Every day bringing new people and places.

Typical barn

One of many displays of blooming
wisteria we saw (and smelt)

The changing terrain

We were tempted to turn left
but we kept going straight on!

Mo shutting up the room at the nunnery
where we spent the night in St. Severs.

Mont de Marsan - St Sevres (21km)

Mo (and coquille); landscape changing from
pine forests to rolling farmland

The first irises

Jenny (and coquille); very rutted path
caused by tree clearance machinery after storms

Still more evidence
of last years storm

The first bluebell

Un jour de repose

Patsy left this morning for Bordeaux as planes still grounded because of the Icelandic volcano. So she took the TGV to Paris and managed to get a cancellation to London tonight. Mo and Jenny had a lazy day, picnic by the river and fantastic museum of sculpture. Mont de Marsan is a beautiful town - the prefecture (county town) of Les Landes. Recuperating ready for the last haul of the chemin in France. Tomorrow, we start an 8 day stint to St Jean Pieds de Port and the foothills of the Pyrenees

Sculpture by Robert Wlerick,
born in Mont de Marsan

The confluence of the rivers Le Douze
and Le Midou in Mont de Marsan