Saturday, June 5, 2010

Day 30 Cacebelos - Trabadelo

Left the Albergue with Ruth at 7.30am. No tea, no breakfast available so had to set off without. Lovely nights sleep cos kept chalet doors open all night.

Stopped after half an hour for cherries - now I'm glad I carried them!  Then at tiny village of Valtuille de Arriba for tea and toast. 

Lovely early morning walk through vineyards. This is the Bierzo region. Arrived in Villafranca about 10am for coffee and met up with Anhelen and Torta (from Sweden).  This is one of the few holidays where you can walk into a town you have never visited and see people you know sitting in the square.

In days of old, if pilgrims arrived here and were too sick to go on to Santiago, they were deemed to have forgiveness and absolution at the Church of Santiago at the Puerte del Perdon and have their Compostella credentials awarded  The church was closed.

We decided on the high scenic route from Villarfranca to Trabahelo rather than following the valley carretera. It was really beautiful and I was pleased to be looking down on the little dots that were pilgrims appreciating being up high. But it was a really steep climb and a very steep descent.  Ruth and I were really shattered. Didn't land at Albergue until 4pm. A long day. People seem thin on the ground- sometimes wonder where everyone gets to. There were 120 in the Albergue last night heading this way today. Have they walked on? Have they all gone to ground somewhere?

Good soup at the Albergue tonight, salad and potato ommelette - the old standby.

It's only 8.30pm but I'm going to bed. 

John and I set off before first light and saw the dawn rise. The first time I had done this on the camino. Met Brian, Peter and Sharon from Australia at Cacabelos. Also met up with Brenda from Denver whom I had met at Ponferrada. All planning to leave early because of the heat.

The alternative walk to Trabedelo was absolutely beautiful, although hard. The climbing was okay and the hillsides were covered in rock roses and a proliferation of wild flowers. We walked alone for most of the walk, just seeing Sonal from Canada towards the end. The path down to Trabedelo was steep and extremely hot. The pale path reflected the heat and we walked down in temperatures of approximately 37C. We were at the point of collapse as we reached Trabedelo. We found a room to rent but were then told it was booked. The landlady took pity on us and drove us to the local hostel where we stripped, had cold showers and fell asleep for three hours. Walking in that heat is not to be recommended. Mo

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