teachers of English, French and Spanish respectively. A joy to walk
with and we put the US and UK to rights in the past and present
political contexts. Stll high hopes for Obama and healthcare in US.
We shared similar reasons for doing the camino - the great outdoors,
the Spanish culture (and food!) and the massive historical importance
of the places en route.
We arrived in San Juan, a small hamlet dominated by the enormous
monastry, without feeling exceptionally shattered. Maybe we are
getting fitter?It is difficult to compare with other etapas when we
are not carrying bags.
We stayed the monastry which now serves as the 'refugio'. We were told
Mass was at 6pm followed by garlic soup at 6.30. This was a centuries
old tradition that San Juan offered pilgrims. We dangled our feet in
the fountain for a bit, had tea in a local bar, then the ritual shower
and change before evening.
We went to Mass with the believers and non- believers. As Christian
said, it is a show, a spectacle, historically a hugely significant
event. And I wouldn't have missed the priests singing 'Blowin in the
Wind' in Spanish! Unless Bob Dylan nicked the tune.
We all filed in for the ritual of garlic soup in the monastry dining
room - maybe 100 people? It was good. We were told we all had to wash
our own bowls and spoons. Thank you Kiki for washing up ours.
There was only one venue available for dinner and only 2 choices on
the menu - omelettes or Mocilla de Burgos (black pudding). It was
astonishing that the bar owner could have made a fortune from his
captive audience but chose not to bother. No entrepreneurial spirit.
We were lucky to get a table and omelettes but were not allowed to
share a plate of black pudding - strictly one plate per person. Most
people sat outside in the evening sun and made do with vino tinto and
crisps from the vending machines, of which strangely there are plenty
in the ancient square.
We had dinner with Christian who we keep bumping into and Sharon, the
Australian who we met in Orisson and lost in Burgete. Her mate Jo is
on ahead.
The communal sleeping arrangements were jolly enough - lots of people
we know, Martine and Elisabet from Switzerland and the young crowd who
we seem to be synchronising a lot with - Kiki, Toby, Doreen and Unay
( the Barcelona FC fiend). However, the monastry was freezing and damp
and nobody slept very well. There were probably 150 people in the 3
rooms. I slept with all my clothes on - merino wool jumper was brill
and surprisngly kept warm in the top bunk. Jennyx
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