Day 30 St Palais - Ostabat (only 10km)

A pic WITH the Basque

First roses in bloom

View from Ostabat

View from Ostabat

Pays Basque: view from the refuge

We arrived in Ostabat at about 1pm and checked in immediately at the refuge Maison Ospitalier which is in Ostabat Bas where all the sickly and infectious pilgrims used to be housed so they wouldn'nt infect the posher pilgrims 'en haut'.

The refuge at Ostabat: more people now because all the different routes in France converge here.

Having dumped the bags we ventured up high to the only restaurant in town for omelettes and salad - it was way past midi. But we also had the local Brebis (sheep's cheese) which this region is most famous for. The patron is a typical Basque - huge and brown and rugged with the half cocked french beret and braces pulling his trousers up round his chest. I wanted to take a photo but the iPhone had died through lack of charge and anyway it might have been a bit rude (may try later if I have the nerve).

It was THE most beautiful walk today - we really are in the foothills of the Pyrennees - the sun was shining and it was totally breathtaking. Quite a lot of steep climbing now and we are definitely feeling fitter. The latest ailment is Mo's swollen ankle so it's bandaged up to get us to St Jean Pieds de Port tomorrow (21Km) which is the halfway point and by all accounts the start of the camino proper through Spain.

Last night we stayed in a Franciscan Monastery where we were the only people apart from the volunteer warden (a great holiday job for the future methinks) in a 26 bed facility. The last monks left in 2007 and they had to sell the building. The local commune bought it and it is now managed by the Mairie. A beautiful building and garden and another memorable experience. The French warden regaled us with tales of the magic of the chemin - the german widower (who had promised his wife he would complete the chemin for her) sleeping in the next bunk who held her hand all night and thanked her profusely in the morning because he had spent time with his wife?? Apparently the Puenta del Reina is the place for the out of body experiences but, as ever, one has to remain 'open' or nothing happens. So we'll stay very open and tell all if anything interesting occurs. Seriously, Jackie was inpirational in her enthusiasm and did have have some telling tales to tell, not least that the period of reflection that the chemin offers inevitably can tell you something about yourself you need to find out (and some things you would rather not know!)

For the French speakers:-

"Tous les anciens pellerins de St Jacques vous le diront: on revient autre d'un tel voyage. Marcher deux mois dans la campagne ou marcher deux mois sure le chemin de Compostelle sont deux experiences totalement differentes. Ce chemin est vivant, 'chargé',parcouru par les energies, les joies, les prieres et les souffrances des centaines de milliers d'homme et femmes qui l'ont parcouru au cours des douze derniers siecles"

So there!!!!

Interior Chez Veronique

Day 30 Saubeterre - St Palais

Ancient stones marking the border of Paussenac in 1395 between the provinces of Bearn, Navarre and Soule.

Cold and wet: first time I've had to wear a coat for over 2 weeks

The Chambre d'hote 'chez Veronique' where we stayed last night.

Leaving Saubeterre