Tuesday, April 27, 2010

27th April Birmingham New Street Station!

Here's Jenny back in Blighty pour une semaine. Got to get French out of the system now and do some intensive swotting up of Spanish ready for next week.

It is such a luxury to be able to update the blog anywhere and any time using the iPhone. It turned out to be far too expensive to use in France. I wonder what system our follower 'Kiwi Nomad' used for her comprensive blog in 2009? There is so much missing because of the long intervals and inevitably the moment passes. But huge thank you to Chris for uploading the photos which help fill the gaps.

I spent last night in an inelegant hotel near the airport in Biarritz. It turned out to be 2km from the airport but on a major dual carriageway with very scary fast traffic whipping up a wind past me as the sole nutty pedestrian. But I have just walked 500km through France so I was darned if I was going to get a taxi to take me a puny 2km! Definitely the most dangerous undertaking of the journey so far.

I've had many thoughts as to whether interrupting the pilgrimage at this point will affect the flow. It takes time to walk into the right frame of mind and more single minded pilgrims would say that doing the Camino in bits (which many people do) does not provide the same contemplative experience. But I'm pleased to have this small break and reflect on the last few weeks. My body is certainly grateful for a rest! I found sitting in the plane excruciating. Just couldn't keep still as I'm so used to being on the move. All my muscles are aching - it seems worse when I'm not moving.

Having experienced the pilgrim frenzy in St Jean, it is clear that the Spanish part of the journey is going to be a whole new ball game. More people, more nationalities, more communal living and more refuges/gites to choose from. So it feels good to me to punctuate it with a gap. Gives me a chance to offload more stuff. One set of clothes to walk in and one to change into. The more stuff you have the harder it is to keep track of in communal sleeping arrangements.

The last refuge in St Jean was a nightmare. People getting up from 4am onwards in order to beat the crowds and get up and over the Pyrenees in order to ensure a bed at the monastry in Roncevalles. Apparently, there are 150 beds - all in the same room no doubt. Mo and I were last to leave feeling absolutely shattered and feeling so relieved that we weren't scheduled to get over the mountain on that particular day!

As for me - Mo - I was picked up by Sharon and Paul and taken to Pamploma to spend a week in an appartment and hang out, walking, eating, sightseeing. Such a break from the daily routine of arriving at a destination, finding food, a bed and then a bed and food options for the following day. Not much time to say much on blogs. So it was photos every day from Jenny texted to Chris for him to keep the blog going. Throughout we have met people who have talked about the power of the camino and the coincidences that happen along the way. My coincidence is that my sister in law Kit happens to be in St Jean Pied de Port on 3rd May when I return to wait the return of the others. Kit is walking from the Atlantic to the Med. through the Pyrenees. Our itinerary was drawn up completely independently and we find ourselves in the same place at the same time. Make what you will.

I am beginning to realise that my French that was beginning to improve will be of little value in Spain. I am desperately learning basic phrases to get by. Sharon and Paul are helping and also ensuring that my walking muscles continue to work. Mo

2 comments:

  1. Hi,
    A break, in my opinion, does not take away from the experience contemplative or otherwise. Though we did the LePuy route which is more populated than the Vezelay route, we found such a difference in the two countries as to experience, you won't lose anything by taking a break. We kept a blog during our piligrimage in Spring 2008 and found it actually easier to find access in Spain. It is not everywhere but many albergues had access for a small fee. I am looking forward to reading about the Spanish part. Bueno Camino.

    Michèle (Ottawa) Canada

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  2. Enjoy your break Jenny. I am sure your body is going to appreciate it, and I hope your mind/determination can get back into it in a week's time. I have loved watching your progress so far.
    The reason my long Camino blog has so much in it is that I never did it while I walked! I did it when I returned home, and if you look, I manipulated the blogger dates to get it in chronological order. I did that blog as I had found a lack of info in English when I was getting ready to walk from Le Puy. What I wrote while I walked is in my KN Wandering's blog, back in April/May/June 2008 and you'll see I wasn't able to use the internet very often at all. And I never put any photos on then at all.
    I wonder if your iPhone can take a 'Spanish' SIM card once you reach Spain?

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