Day 3 Flavignac - Chalus (13.5km)

The day started cold and wet and remained so all day. We started off following the D20 for a while and were worried that we would simply be walking by the side of a major road for most of the day. It changed though to a quiet country road and then tracks through chestnut woods. This was a delightful change from some all the road walking we have been doing from Limoges.



So far we have seen the spring flowers begin to open, cowslips,violets, periwincle, pulmonaria, wood anemones and a small unkown blue flower that we have been unable to identify. We want to take our time and 'walk into Spring'. Mo

We are now esconced in a hotel run by an English guy in Chalus and we have TEA in the room (unknown in France). You won't believe this - he has lent me a laptop and Mo a hair dryer AND he comes from Leigh on Sea and plays cricket with David Slaughter (Mike Slaughter's nephew)! Don't suppose it will be the first 'small world' coincidence we will experience during the next three months.

We met our first fellow 'pilgrims' today - 5 Belgian women who are doing 10 days of the chemin this year and who have done most of it in sections over the years. We bumped into them en route when we had taken a wrong turning but it was fairly obvious quite quickly that they were marching very seriously at a speed greater than we wished to. They had day packs on as one of them will hitchhike back to their car and bring the rest of their gear tonight. They are staying in the same hotel tonight so will exchange stories over dinner. We also met a French antelope shaped man at a coffee stop who was walking alone doing approx 30km/day and will complete Vezelay - St Jean Pieds de Port in one month. So for the moment everyone is going faster than us but we are going further and carrying more. And we want to see things and talk to people. And as one of our followers from New Zealand has reminded us 'Il faut aller doucement'. That's definitely one of our mottos along with 'a bird in the hand ....' when it comes to food.



We are getting into a bit of a rhythm now and have started working out what it is costing us to get by. Refuges are cheap but are long distances apart so we have to rely on hotels and Chambres d'Hotes much of the time. The FSJ website suggests a daily budget of 30 euros and we are very proud of ourselves that yesterday we spent only 29!

What is really fantastic for me is that I am having to speak so much more French than on normal 'holidays'. It is impossible not to talk to people in this situation - whether its directions or about what we are doing - there is lots of talking going on. In Aixe, while Mo was blogging in a Cyber Base, I was invited to a video conference on Google Services. Such an experience - my first ever google lesson and it was in French! Last week was apparently La Fete de l'Internet and there was lots going on as well as free access to computers. So every cloud does have a silver lining. Although we were initially fed up with not being able to use the iPhone due to the cost, having to seek out internet cafes and libraries is miles better socially.

Its been drizzling on and off all day today while we were walking and we were really grateful for our cosy Paramo trousers and proper waterproof stuff. We talk constantly about what we could or should have left behind cos the packs are SO heavy but so far nothing seems dispensable except the first aid kit and that would be tempting fate ...Jenny

Day 2 Moulin Japaud - Flavignac

Well we have landed literally on our feet in Flavignac. We have a lovely little tiny refuge to ourselves ce soir - very thoughtfully kitted out with clean bedding, food staples, heating - a gem!

Short day walking today - we are still building up our fitness and stamina. Fantastic lunch here at Le Tot et Tard (sooner or later?). We had potage, rabbit and chestnuts, fromage, tatre au myrtilles, wine and coffee - all for 11.50 euros each!

Last night at the Chambre D'Hote was a hoot - more tomorrow - the library is closing NOW!
Jenny

Leaving Limoges

The very adequate 'cell' where we slept

The sisters of St Francois d'Assise where we stayed last night

The first shell we saw on the pavement
marking the route out of Limoges

Day one - Limoges to Moulin Japaud outside Aixe S6666ur Vienne 16Km

We spent the night in Limoges at the Sisters of St Francis of Assisi just by the Cathedral. An elderly nun gave us a warm reception and directed us to the Cathedral next door by 6pm to get our credential stamped. For 14 Euros each, breakfast 2.50 Euros we were allocated a beautiful simple room each, showers were nearby. The sister was pleased to see us. We were the first pilgrims of the season.They have five bedrooms for pilgrims there. We had hoped to stay with the sisters of Nazareth whose refuge was near the exit route from Limoges. However, they did not answer their phone and there was no reply at the door.

Lots of people waved and helpfully gave us directions as we left Limoges. On the pavement was the shell of St Jacques at some intervals. The route was mainly on pavement with only a short stretch of track. It was hard on the knees, but the sticks helped.

I think I was more worried than Jenny as to whether I had the stamina to carry the heavy pack for any distance. It wasn't too bad, but the lunch stop at Aix sur Vienne with wine weakened the resolve to keep going. A stop off at the internet cafe was just the thing needed. A young boy tried to get Jenny to swop her iPhone for a Nokia. I think he thought she was clueless!!!

Tonight we are staying at a Chambre D'hote outside Aix sur Vienne before heading off to Flavignac tomorrow and another refuge. These short first days are to ease us in gently.Hope it works!! Mo

The Chambre d'Hote in Moulin Japaud:-
Its worth a few words about this place before we forget the experience. Madame Genevieve M. was our hostess with the mostest. She is in her seventies and lives alone in the wilds (no internet, no mobile signal) She is an amateur historian specialising in Napoleon. She plays the Clavecin and gave us a mini recital. Her house was elaborately decorated in a Baroque style and the place was full of her own handiwork - masses of historical military statues painstakingly painted, tapestries which she designs and sews herself, quilted bedcovers and cushions etc. But her main characteristic was that she LOVED to talk. She talked us all through a fabulously cooked dinner about her historical lecturing work, her many hobbies, her involvment with the preservation of wild life, her belief that global warming is a myth (she had the books to prove it!). And she demanded our opinions on everything. It was absolutely exhausting but exhilarating to have to concentrate on the French and make reasonaly sensible comments when she briefly stopped to pause for breath and looked at us questionly.
She didnt eat breakfast with us (homemade Pain d'Epices, homemade yogurt, honemade jams etc) but hovered constantly with more information about her life. I think we were the first visitors of the season and she was letting rip!

Limoges - again!

We've arrived back in Limoges after one week in La Charente getting acclimatized to the region, the terrain, the climate and the French. We have done one proper practice walk with all the gear on our backs and were pleasantly surprised that we managed 12Km sans probleme. The sticks (walking poles) helped enormously taking the weight off the dodgy knees.

We have had a good lunch in Limoges and are 'resting' in a cyber cafe until the refuge opens hopefully at 4pm. We decided to stay one night here in our first Refuge du Pellerins so that we can get an early start tomorrow and get 12Km under our belt before lunch. We are also hoping we might get some inside information about the route, accomodation and food. There is very little written about food en route in the literature and as this is a subject close to out hearts we are a tad worried about sustenance out in the wild and off the beaten track. Tempers get frayed when hypoglcaemia sets in!

We visited Patzi and James (ex-Hebden Bridgers) in Montmorillon (La Cité d'écrit). They are busy moving their English bookshop to new premises to accomodate more books and Patzi's beautiful old french linen and objets d'Arts. We had a lovely lunch with them -thank you folks - and it is wonderful to see some ex-pats making such a good job of integrating with the locals. We are hoping to meet up with Patzi again for Easter which will hopefully be in Perigueux, our next planned day off after 8 days walking.

Mo has been doing some serious planning revising our distances and stopovers but the motto has to be 'one day at a time sweet Jesus' - especially if we end up with the Sisters of Mercy ce soir!

The Credential

Our credentials have arrived at Chasseneuil and very spectacular they are too. We have also got one for Patsy and will get the rest at St Jean for everyone else joining us. We have started training by walking with some of our pack. It needs to reduce!! We intend to begin slowly and build up the distances as we get stronger.

We were encouraged to get training bras without underwires because we could be struck by lightening?. Having taken that advice we have bought sports bras and both of us dislike them. We will risk lightening.

We are finding that the notebook with a pencil is a deal easier to use than the fancy iPhone where we are having constant signal problems as well as costing far too much.

So far we are enjoying gorgeous French food, samping the set menus of the Charente. We recommend it but know that cost will force us to more Mo

Arrival and internet issues

Hi there
Currently in an 'internet' cafe (aka french restaurant where the formule for 4 courses is 11 euros) and the keyboard is even more difficult to manage after several pichets de vin.
However ........ we are having problems posting because we have realised it costs a fortune using the iPhone (c'est la vie!) So, it will be internet cafes and help from home that will maintain this blog.
Hand over to Mo for some real news :-
We have struggled to obtain the credential. I thought that we could obtain it at the Cathedral in Limoges but they were not open until 2.30pm and we needed to go to a friends house near Angouleme where we intended to stay for a few days. The tourist information office in Limoges was particularly unhelpful, saying that we could only apply for it by post and it was now too late if we were beginning our walk next week. However in the local tourist information in Chasseneuil rang the Association of St Jacques in Angouleme and the tourist information office in Angouleme arranged to bring three credentials to Chasseneuil for us. Hence, try the local tourist information, but your French needs to be quite good!

Limoges

We arrived in Limoge and stayed at a local two star hotel for the first night. Train journey was pleasant and we had a lovely meal at Paris Austerlitz. This may be a journey of meals and scenery.

We're in France!

Boarding Eurostar

We got through security with no problems - swiss army knives and camping cutlery allowed!

I'm struggling to familiarise myself with the iPhone as this is how we are going to post blogs. It is really hard going and unless I get considerably more adept, news might be a bit thin!

The maps have arrived!

For months now we have been waiting for the updated version of the Itineraire du Pelerin De Saint Jacques Voie Historique de Vezelay. It has finally arrived via the csj website and its brilliant. It has 1.50,000 map of each day, percise description of the walk, where to stay, eat etc. So we are ready!!.

I'm hoping that work will fade completely into the background. I don't think about it during the day but I visit it in my dreams most nights. However retirement is a lovely state to be in. Guilt free days, no timetable, just planning this walk. Lots of people are joining us along the way and this will keep us going. Mo

some thoughts from Jenny ....

Its countdown time for me. I'm leaving Hebden on Tuesday to spend a week with my elderly mother before I meet up with Mo in London.

I spent Saturday weighing every item I wanted to take on my kitchen scales and rationalising my allowance of socks and knickers! So far I am under 8Kg but know there will be lots of last minute 'just in case' items I won't be able to resist. Ironically, one of the things that really appeals to me is the challenge of living out of a small rucksuck for 3 months cos normally I'm surrounded by so much 'stuff'. So there is one reason I am doing this secular 'pilgrimage'.

But the main reason is because I can. It's absolutely Mo's brainchild and she asked me to join her last year. I said I'll certainly join you for a bit of it but as time went on I thought what the hell? For the first time in my life I am commitment free. No work, children, dog, husband or partner. No one who needs looking after, no one who needs me. What a liberation!

I havn't thought long and hard about the logistics of walking day in day out. If I did I would frighten myself out of doing it. Other friends have considered joining us and having taken one look at the itinerary and bottled out. My head is firmly in the sand. Take it as it comes and if the going gets tough - hop on a bus!

First post

The packing begins. Lightweight rucksacks purchased, we're arguing about the 8 or 10 kilo limit. Jenny and Mo are leaving England on 16th March via Eurostar and SNCF to Limoges.

We have accommodation for one night before moving to Jenny's house nearby for a few days' "training". Our plan is to start a week earlier than the organised itinerary in order to pace ourselves and build up slowly.

Patsy Skeet is joining us at La Reole on Sunday, 11th April via a Bordeaux flight.