Day 38 Melide - Arzua

Bread Shop in Melide

7am
I've woken up with a sore throat, cough and cold. Not surprising as I've been so wet and cold for the last three days. Fortunately just a short day planned to Arzua today as there is a long etapa tomorrow with no accomodation en route. We have booked a private albergue for 12 euros each. Seems the best compromise in the circumstances.

I'm not sure if it's still raining but suspect it is.

Last night, we were a group of 6 staying in this hotel planning to have dinner together. But they didn't start serving until 9pm. In most places, despite the normal Spanish late dining, they start serving pilgrims from 7 pm. None of us could face going out in the rain again - it was really torrential - so we stayed here. It was a lovely meal - lots of fish - but I was tired and past it and couldn't wait to get to bed - probably cos I was incubating this cold!


Oh dear! Didn't get far this morning when I realised I really couldn't go any further in the relentless rain.  After setting off dry with cosy feet and best of intentions, I gradually got wetter,colder and unhappier. And I felt so ill! Started to think I was mad to be doing it- didn't need to do penance or be a martyr to any cause.

I said to Ruth that if it was raining tomorrow, I definitely would not walk. I had made the decision. She suggested we try and curtail today. Fortuitously, we landed at a main road with a bar and a bus outside. The bus pulled away as we approached but the seed was sown. We went in the bar and ordered hot water to make a Lemsip and a taxi to take us to Arzua. It was only 8 euros. 

We had booked a private albergue that had offered us 2 double rooms for 24 euros per room. What a godsend! 2 big rooms, bathroom and kitchen.  I was able to spend the afternoon in bed with more of the Spanish equivalent of Lemsip.

John and Mo arrived sodden and weary about 3pm. I don't think I missed much. It was another head down day. Before I lost the will to live, I had appreciated the pungent decongestive smell of the eucalyptus trees as we past through more Galician wet woods. Ruth got some of the leaves down for me and I crushed them and put them in my pillow. I think it helped. 

The four if us went out for Paella for dinner. I didn't have much appetite. A muted ocasion. I suspect we were all secretly hoping for a change in the weather and our spirits before the grand finale. 

Don' look now! Hunchback pilgrim and flooded path

John and I walked in the rain from Melide to Aruza. It was so heavy that even my knickers were wet when we stopped at the bar for lunch. John didn´t seem to mind the rain and remained chirpy. I couldn´t wait to stop. Luckily it was a short day and we had rooms at the alburgue so no dormitory experience for us tonight. Jenny´s cold got progressively worse and after seeing and missing a bus, she and Ruth got a taxi to Aruza. Tomorrow´s another day. Mo

Waiting for Paella