Day 32 La Laguna - Fonfria

Alto San Roque

Inside the church at O Cebreiro

Inside the church at O Cebreiro

Photo taken by Ursula - by the flowering hawthorn

Dinner at Fonfria

Slept with 6 Italians who were gone by 6.30am so decided I may as well move too. I climbed up to the top of O Cebreiro as the sun was coming up. So lucky to have the sun and clear skies for the amazing views.

O Cebreiro is quaint and very touristy but I did have a special camino moment in the church. It is 9th century and the oldest church on the camino. It is so beautifully simple and I was there just as the sun was shining through the window slits behind the altar. Surprisingly for an earthbound, irreligious and rational person, I was choked up. Maybe it was just reaching the top. But I think it was the sheer magical beauty of simple stone, wood and light. No stained glass, no blood and gore effigies, no gold or silver.

Once over the mountain, I'm walking into the damp mist that you can see from the top. It is pleasantly refreshing after the heat of the last few days. The guide book says that the weather changes dramatically in Galicia as the westerly winds from the Atlantic hit the mountains.

A lady who liked having her picture taken

I have met Ursula, German living in Spain, on this stretch. She had the OK in March after treatment for throat cancer. So this is really a camino oh thanksgiving. She's going slow and valueing every moment.

Clara at Alto do Poio (1337m). Walked last little climb with Matts who emerged from the mist. Matts is the self confessed alcoholic Viking who tells me he is 34. I guessed him to be 40.

Ruth and I have walked together off and on today. She takes off, I linger. Then she stops and I catch up. So we arrived in Fonfria together and decided to stay. We could have walked on but the next albergue is 9 km away. The landlady said she was full but agreed that we and about 10 others could sleep on the floor on matresses. That's fine. More than fine. The building is a palloza and it's tons better than the military style bunk beds in the usual albergues.

Walking alone - why I can't get lost!

Inside the palloza where we are sleeping

Where I am sleeping tonight

John and I passed through O Ceibreiro where it was misty and attmospheric.Sometimes the surrounding mountains could be seen, sometimes the mist was too dense. We walked on to Triacastela but arrived later in the afternoon. The place was full! No beds to be had anywhere. We went to the local alburgue and were directed to a Casa rural place 2Km back. The owner came to collect us. We were told to bring food but she then locked up the kitchen, leaving us with a pile of uncooked food and no alternative! I was not happy, but we managed to scrape together some cold food that we later shared with three Spanish people who were brought later and faced the same situation as us. We had our own room but the beds creaked and there were rustling plastic sheets. We put the mattresses on the floor. We won´t be recommending that particular billet to anyone. Mo

Day 31 Trabadelo - La Laguna

Ruth and I shared a room last night with a young Spaniard who started screaming in the night (about 12.30am). Ruth started screaming in response and it was the most blood curdling noise. He was thrashing about on the top bunk and I was terrified he was going to fall off.  He didn't wake up. People in other rooms started moving around, going to the loo, outside for a smoke but NOBODY came in to see if we had been murdered!  In the morning, it was obvious that everyone had been disturbed but didn't want to be the next victim. 

We were only going to go to Rutelan today. 10km. To have an easy day and because the Albergue had been recommended. But we were there by 11am and it was too early to stop. We had picnic lunch at Las Herrerias en route upwards to O Cebreiro. Ruth and I  decided to part company for a while so we could go at our own pace. She took off and I lingered at the lunch spot.  

O Cebreiro is a steep climb up to 1330m and quite a milestone on the camino. Ruth and I had planned to stop halfway up and do half of it in the morning when it is cooler.

Everyone seems to be rushing upwards with intent and just to be perverse I have dipped a cloth in the river to put around my shoulders and decided to go up as slowly as possible. I am stopping at every bit of shade and despite the intense heat I am on a mission not to get hot and sweaty. It is not a day to increase one's aerobic capacity. Easy does it. As Ruth has gone on, I am a free agent to be as perverse as I like.

I stopped at the German hostel in La Faba and decided not to stay there. It was 2pm and I thought I could go on a bit. It was a big room with a lot of bunks. 

Trouble is going higher is above the tree line and it is very hot with little shade. Have I been hasty in turning down a bed. Will there be one at the next place?? This is what goes through one's mind when alone. How risky to be ??

Scary stuff. Got to La Laguna, the last post before top of O Cebreiro and ...... COMPLETO!

She rang around a bit but no joy. It's a very tiny hamlet so there's not a lot of options. 

So I took a deep breath and tried not to cry, ordered a clara (shandy) and decided to sit for a while and then push on. It's only 2.5km to the top and probably a lot more beds there.  

While I'm sat having a drink, a guy from Croatia meets some mates coming up who ask him to go on with him. He cancels his bed!!  So the lady is so pleased to tell me I'm OK to sleep after all. I gave her my credential for stamping and paid 9 euros. That's expensive for a albergue so don't know what I'm getting? 

I'm in a room for six on a top bunk (which I don't like) but the village is lovely 
and Ruth is here too. We didn't realise this for a while. So we had dinner together 
and now I'm appreciating the last of the evening sun looking at a field of cabbages which have just been ploughed by a horse. 

John and I also walked up to La Laguna, the day after Jenny. After the experiences of the previous day we decided to get our bags carried and have another early start to avoid the afternoon heat. The walk was steep but not as difficult as the previous day. The path was stony but scenic, with views of the mountains as we climbed. It was hot but not overpowering. We arrived in La Laguna at 12 noon and spent the afternoon sleeping and relaxing in the room. We rejected the domitory option! It later cooled and the clouds came in, obscuring the views. Mo

Day 30 Cacebelos - Trabadelo

Left the Albergue with Ruth at 7.30am. No tea, no breakfast available so had to set off without. Lovely nights sleep cos kept chalet doors open all night.

Stopped after half an hour for cherries - now I'm glad I carried them!  Then at tiny village of Valtuille de Arriba for tea and toast. 

Lovely early morning walk through vineyards. This is the Bierzo region. Arrived in Villafranca about 10am for coffee and met up with Anhelen and Torta (from Sweden).  This is one of the few holidays where you can walk into a town you have never visited and see people you know sitting in the square.

In days of old, if pilgrims arrived here and were too sick to go on to Santiago, they were deemed to have forgiveness and absolution at the Church of Santiago at the Puerte del Perdon and have their Compostella credentials awarded  The church was closed.

We decided on the high scenic route from Villarfranca to Trabahelo rather than following the valley carretera. It was really beautiful and I was pleased to be looking down on the little dots that were pilgrims appreciating being up high. But it was a really steep climb and a very steep descent.  Ruth and I were really shattered. Didn't land at Albergue until 4pm. A long day. People seem thin on the ground- sometimes wonder where everyone gets to. There were 120 in the Albergue last night heading this way today. Have they walked on? Have they all gone to ground somewhere?

Good soup at the Albergue tonight, salad and potato ommelette - the old standby.

It's only 8.30pm but I'm going to bed. 

John and I set off before first light and saw the dawn rise. The first time I had done this on the camino. Met Brian, Peter and Sharon from Australia at Cacabelos. Also met up with Brenda from Denver whom I had met at Ponferrada. All planning to leave early because of the heat.

The alternative walk to Trabedelo was absolutely beautiful, although hard. The climbing was okay and the hillsides were covered in rock roses and a proliferation of wild flowers. We walked alone for most of the walk, just seeing Sonal from Canada towards the end. The path down to Trabedelo was steep and extremely hot. The pale path reflected the heat and we walked down in temperatures of approximately 37C. We were at the point of collapse as we reached Trabedelo. We found a room to rent but were then told it was booked. The landlady took pity on us and drove us to the local hostel where we stripped, had cold showers and fell asleep for three hours. Walking in that heat is not to be recommended. Mo

Day 29 Ponferrada - Cacabelos (16km)

Big day today. John arrives later on in Ponferrada so Mo is staying here to wait for him and I am going on. This gives them some time together and for john to acclimatise. I'm looking forward to tackling some of the camino alone although today will be cushioned by setting off with Ruth.

Left Mo with Sue Kenney's book - Me and my camino - or something? We met her yesterday doing the camino backwards not knowing she was a writer. Found the book at the refuge. She was burning buffalo sage in a shell which she brought from Alberta. We should have benefitted from the experience of inhaling the smoke - cleansing of body, mind, spirit and all that.

11am Ruth and I have done about 10km and have arrived in Camponaraya where there is a free WiFi zone so can update as you go! Good excuse for a rest! Bought first crop cherries on the way from a street seller and have now got to eat them all to avoid carrying further. Have come through lots of productive Market gardens but so far today all Tarmac. Plays hell with the knees. Unusual for Spain,ore reminiscent of France.

We've passed the 200km left to do mark!

Albergue is tops! rooms (cabins) for 2 people only and no bunks! Hurrah! All very practically built around the church.

The routine in this hot weather is to walk till about 2pm. Usually off by 8am and several stops for coffee, rests etc. Then shower and clothes wash - everything you've been wearing cos it is so sweaty. Most of the Albergues have a row of stone sinks outside with cold water and built in washboards for scrubbing. My nan would be impressed at my tecnique.

Had Pulpo (Octopus) for dinner.

John arrived from Irun after a marathon train journey from Hebden Bridge to Ponferrada via a couchette overnight from Paris. Really good to see him. Now he begins the walk. Will be a day behind Jenny but hope to catch up. Spent Thursday heading off to Villafranca but stopped at Cacabelos. Couldn´t resist the two person cabin in an eco building in the grounds of the church with solar heated showers. Decided to leave at 5.30am and join the early risers because the heat is in intolerable in the afternoon. Could barely move today. John a bit aprehensive about walking but so far managed first day. Mo

Day 28 Acebo - Ponferrada

Mo with Sue (facebook - Suseya) who was
travelling in the opposite direction

The beautiful downhill path to Molinoseca

The mountain village of Acebo

Walking through another mountain village

Expensive breakfast at the Albergue followed by a beautiful downhill walk to Molinaseca. Narrow paths bordered with dog roses, rock roses, yellow and white broom. Definitely a path not to be missed. I texted Bernt to tell him he has got to do the camino again as he missed the best bit!

Ran into Ruth again st coffee break at Molinoseca and walked into Ponferrada with her.

We stayed in the large municipal hostel that sleeps 200 - fortunately in small rooms. Much prefer smaller, less impersonal but this is all there is. For the first time we had to queue up on arrival. It was hot, we were tired so it was hot. One of the hospitaliers brought cold drinks to the queue.

After showers, we went to a restaurant for a late Spamish lunch with Ruth and shared a table with Argentinian Pablo who is not a pilgrim but on a years travel in Europe.

We stayed in the restaurant until 5 ish, then went to see the Knights Templar castle that's being restored. Found the first outdoor shop and bought a new head torch. Got money out as last big place with these facilities for a while.

Day 27 Rabinal to Acebo 16Km

Manjarin Albergue - 202 kms to go!

People doing it on horseback

It was the most spectacular days walk so far on this camino. We were surrounded by mountains and the path wound up the hillside that was covered in yellow and white broom. We reached the Cruz de Ferra where people have traditionally brought stones from home. We hadn´t but there was a collection of stones, photo´s, notes etc. It was a very moving sight. Then a coach load of Spanish school children arrived and swarmed all over it, picking up carefully laid stones and notes to take away. Jen decided to leave a letter for Tom, her son, just in case he should ever walk the camino but she waited until the children had gone.

At Manjarin we met Tomas, who has swelled the population of this hamlet to one, the rest is derelict. He has an alburgue there that is very basic but a little bit of hippiness on the trail.

We reached the highest point of the camino at Collado de las Antenas 1515m. The day was hot but there was a wind that kept us cool until we started to descend. This made up for our lost views over the Pyrenees. Usually this point is shrouded in mist. At Acebo, a small hilltop village we stopped. The heat was sweltering and we had had enough. There seemed to be a rush for beds. Mo

Coming up to the Cruz de Ferro

That's us on either side of the Cruz de Ferro

See the stuff people leave

And another at the iron cross ...

Day 26 Astorga to Rabinal del Camino 20km

Inside the church at Rabanal

The garden at the Albergue in Rabanal

Afternoon tea at the 'English'
refuge in Rabanal

The Albergue at Rabanal

Another beautiful walk out of Astorga, gradually climbing to Rabinal, a typical hilltop village with wooden balconies to all the houses. It was a hot day and we arrived exhausted. Decided to stay at the only English Alburgue on this camino run by the Confraternity of St James. It was one of the nicest alburgues we have been to. It had a large orchard to sit in, quiet space and they gave us our own bedroom! Jenny told them about her panic attack in a top bunk! It was delightful.

The two hospitaliers served afternoon tea at 5pm and one of the hospitaliers was Alison Raju who has written guide books for the camino. She is a very modest but talented lady, who speaks four languages. We attended a Catholic service in the church opposite where they sang Gregorian chant, then off for supper with a couple from Canada who work for the salvation army. All comments about the church and faith were kept to ourselves.

Bernt phoned us that evening telling us that in no circumstances were we to walk downhill to Ponferrada. People were arriving with injuries. We took the telephone number of the local taxi firm. Mo