Ruth and I shared a room last night with a young Spaniard who started screaming in the night (about 12.30am). Ruth started screaming in response and it was the most blood curdling noise. He was thrashing about on the top bunk and I was terrified he was going to fall off. He didn't wake up. People in other rooms started moving around, going to the loo, outside for a smoke but NOBODY came in to see if we had been murdered! In the morning, it was obvious that everyone had been disturbed but didn't want to be the next victim.
We were only going to go to Rutelan today. 10km. To have an easy day and because the Albergue had been recommended. But we were there by 11am and it was too early to stop. We had picnic lunch at Las Herrerias en route upwards to O Cebreiro. Ruth and I decided to part company for a while so we could go at our own pace. She took off and I lingered at the lunch spot.
O Cebreiro is a steep climb up to 1330m and quite a milestone on the camino. Ruth and I had planned to stop halfway up and do half of it in the morning when it is cooler.
Everyone seems to be rushing upwards with intent and just to be perverse I have dipped a cloth in the river to put around my shoulders and decided to go up as slowly as possible. I am stopping at every bit of shade and despite the intense heat I am on a mission not to get hot and sweaty. It is not a day to increase one's aerobic capacity. Easy does it. As Ruth has gone on, I am a free agent to be as perverse as I like.
I stopped at the German hostel in La Faba and decided not to stay there. It was 2pm and I thought I could go on a bit. It was a big room with a lot of bunks.
Trouble is going higher is above the tree line and it is very hot with little shade. Have I been hasty in turning down a bed. Will there be one at the next place?? This is what goes through one's mind when alone. How risky to be ??
Scary stuff. Got to La Laguna, the last post before top of O Cebreiro and ...... COMPLETO!
She rang around a bit but no joy. It's a very tiny hamlet so there's not a lot of options.
So I took a deep breath and tried not to cry, ordered a clara (shandy) and decided to sit for a while and then push on. It's only 2.5km to the top and probably a lot more beds there.
While I'm sat having a drink, a guy from Croatia meets some mates coming up who ask him to go on with him. He cancels his bed!! So the lady is so pleased to tell me I'm OK to sleep after all. I gave her my credential for stamping and paid 9 euros. That's expensive for a albergue so don't know what I'm getting?
I'm in a room for six on a top bunk (which I don't like) but the village is lovely
and Ruth is here too. We didn't realise this for a while. So we had dinner together
and now I'm appreciating the last of the evening sun looking at a field of cabbages which have just been ploughed by a horse.
John and I also walked up to La Laguna, the day after Jenny. After the experiences of the previous day we decided to get our bags carried and have another early start to avoid the afternoon heat. The walk was steep but not as difficult as the previous day. The path was stony but scenic, with views of the mountains as we climbed. It was hot but not overpowering. We arrived in La Laguna at 12 noon and spent the afternoon sleeping and relaxing in the room. We rejected the domitory option! It later cooled and the clouds came in, obscuring the views. Mo
Oh yikes.... a shame about the noises in the night at Trabedelo... I had a room all to myself there and loved the serenity for a change!!
ReplyDelete