Camino Comrades: Day 28 Sault de Navailles

New signage in Pyrenees Atlantic

We planned a short étape today so we could arrive in Orthez in time for lunch and have enough energy to look around this beautiful old town. Lunch proved to be one of those menus I have got to recount - Tarte au poireau (leek) with salad followed by lapin (rabbit again) au tomate with an amazing potato and courgette melange with loads of whole cloves of garlic in it. The food definitely seems to have a more Spanish influence now. Pudding was only stewed apple but with lovely crunchy bits in and served with creme chantilly. Rosé wine was thrown in all for 11.50 euros.

The refuge at Orthez

The absolute highlight of this mornings walk was the very first sighting of the Pyrennées in the distance with snow on them. It seems absolutely amazing that we have walked into such a new world of really hot sun, palm trees, snow capped mountains compared with the flat pine forests that we were traversing 3 days ago. It feels like a real achievement and makes the aches and pains, blisters and complete exhaustion all seem worthwhile.

Time to sightsee in Orthez. Le Pont Vieux

And the bridge from the other side

One of the problems in trying to update the blog is that we arrive at our destination so fatigued that we don't have the energy to look around. It is not always straightforward finding the Pilgrims Refuge (Refuge au Pellerins),especially if you arrive late and out of normal working hours. The refuges are uusally provided by the municipality (such is the esteem that the Chemin St Jacques is held) and there is a small charge or the option of a voluntary donation. The key can be collected at the Mairie or the Office de Tourisme. If the Association (Confraternité St Jacques) is active in the area the refuge will be well equipped with all sorts of thoughtful and useful extras like tea, coffee, oil, powdered milk, washing powder etc etc;

I have left Mo showering and recuperating in the refuge here in Orthez, which is situated in a very old building (previously Hotel de la Lune) - see photos and is accessed up a very ancient stone spiral staircase. It is an exceptionally evocative building to be staying in. More usually the refuges are terraced houses (maison du village). We may have other pellerins arriving there later as most people seem to do the 28km étape from Hagetmau to Orthez. We now know our what our limits are for a reasonably enjoyable and pain free day and less than 20km is our goal.

As a result we broke the journey last night by staying in a hotel at Sault de Navailles and we were both looking forward to a night of comparative luxury. It was the only possible stop in town so there were no alternatives. Suffice it to say we were disappointed. I will leave it to Mo to describe the details as she was more shocked by the dust and the dirty toilet than I was. I've stayed in worse places but the problem was our expectations were unrealistically raised during our walking dreams.

Maize (grown locally) and stored for animal feed

Interestingly, I thought staying in a different unknown place night after night would be one of the things I would find disturbing about this venture. I thought I would really miss my own bed. But that has not been a problem. It is surprising what you get used to and what becomes the norm; making the best of what's available and moving on. We have changed our routine in the last few days as the weather has got hotter. We now try and leave by 8.30am in the moring and get at least 12km under our belt before lunch. Pscyhologically and physically, this is working out much better for us.

The sign in book in the refuge. We would like to meet Hazel and Christopher Wyke from Oxford who go before us.

It is astounding that we are coming to the end of our 30 odd days of walking in France and the halfway point of the camino is nearly here. I am supposed to be returning to England for a week and Mo is staying in Pamplona before we start the Spanish lap at the beginning of May with Richard (Peters) and Pam (Parkinson) due to join us. However, I am not sure if the flights will be operating normally by then so, as ever, plans have to be made one day at a time .......

One last word on what a brilliant experience this has been to date, the journey of a life time with conversational french lessons thrown in. I've always loved France but I love it even more now. Plus I certainly know a whole lot more about it's people and geography by walking through it than I ever would have imagined in a previous life.