Day one - Limoges to Moulin Japaud outside Aixe S6666ur Vienne 16Km

We spent the night in Limoges at the Sisters of St Francis of Assisi just by the Cathedral. An elderly nun gave us a warm reception and directed us to the Cathedral next door by 6pm to get our credential stamped. For 14 Euros each, breakfast 2.50 Euros we were allocated a beautiful simple room each, showers were nearby. The sister was pleased to see us. We were the first pilgrims of the season.They have five bedrooms for pilgrims there. We had hoped to stay with the sisters of Nazareth whose refuge was near the exit route from Limoges. However, they did not answer their phone and there was no reply at the door.

Lots of people waved and helpfully gave us directions as we left Limoges. On the pavement was the shell of St Jacques at some intervals. The route was mainly on pavement with only a short stretch of track. It was hard on the knees, but the sticks helped.

I think I was more worried than Jenny as to whether I had the stamina to carry the heavy pack for any distance. It wasn't too bad, but the lunch stop at Aix sur Vienne with wine weakened the resolve to keep going. A stop off at the internet cafe was just the thing needed. A young boy tried to get Jenny to swop her iPhone for a Nokia. I think he thought she was clueless!!!

Tonight we are staying at a Chambre D'hote outside Aix sur Vienne before heading off to Flavignac tomorrow and another refuge. These short first days are to ease us in gently.Hope it works!! Mo

The Chambre d'Hote in Moulin Japaud:-
Its worth a few words about this place before we forget the experience. Madame Genevieve M. was our hostess with the mostest. She is in her seventies and lives alone in the wilds (no internet, no mobile signal) She is an amateur historian specialising in Napoleon. She plays the Clavecin and gave us a mini recital. Her house was elaborately decorated in a Baroque style and the place was full of her own handiwork - masses of historical military statues painstakingly painted, tapestries which she designs and sews herself, quilted bedcovers and cushions etc. But her main characteristic was that she LOVED to talk. She talked us all through a fabulously cooked dinner about her historical lecturing work, her many hobbies, her involvment with the preservation of wild life, her belief that global warming is a myth (she had the books to prove it!). And she demanded our opinions on everything. It was absolutely exhausting but exhilarating to have to concentrate on the French and make reasonaly sensible comments when she briefly stopped to pause for breath and looked at us questionly.
She didnt eat breakfast with us (homemade Pain d'Epices, homemade yogurt, honemade jams etc) but hovered constantly with more information about her life. I think we were the first visitors of the season and she was letting rip!