Left the Albergue with Ruth at 7.30am. No tea, no breakfast available so had to set off without. Lovely nights sleep cos kept chalet doors open all night.
Stopped after half an hour for cherries - now I'm glad I carried them! Then at tiny village of Valtuille de Arriba for tea and toast.
Lovely early morning walk through vineyards. This is the Bierzo region. Arrived in Villafranca about 10am for coffee and met up with Anhelen and Torta (from Sweden). This is one of the few holidays where you can walk into a town you have never visited and see people you know sitting in the square.
In days of old, if pilgrims arrived here and were too sick to go on to Santiago, they were deemed to have forgiveness and absolution at the Church of Santiago at the Puerte del Perdon and have their Compostella credentials awarded The church was closed.
We decided on the high scenic route from Villarfranca to Trabahelo rather than following the valley carretera. It was really beautiful and I was pleased to be looking down on the little dots that were pilgrims appreciating being up high. But it was a really steep climb and a very steep descent. Ruth and I were really shattered. Didn't land at Albergue until 4pm. A long day. People seem thin on the ground- sometimes wonder where everyone gets to. There were 120 in the Albergue last night heading this way today. Have they walked on? Have they all gone to ground somewhere?
Good soup at the Albergue tonight, salad and potato ommelette - the old standby.
It's only 8.30pm but I'm going to bed.
John and I set off before first light and saw the dawn rise. The first time I had done this on the camino. Met Brian, Peter and Sharon from Australia at Cacabelos. Also met up with Brenda from Denver whom I had met at Ponferrada. All planning to leave early because of the heat.
The alternative walk to Trabedelo was absolutely beautiful, although hard. The climbing was okay and the hillsides were covered in rock roses and a proliferation of wild flowers. We walked alone for most of the walk, just seeing Sonal from Canada towards the end. The path down to Trabedelo was steep and extremely hot. The pale path reflected the heat and we walked down in temperatures of approximately 37C. We were at the point of collapse as we reached Trabedelo. We found a room to rent but were then told it was booked. The landlady took pity on us and drove us to the local hostel where we stripped, had cold showers and fell asleep for three hours. Walking in that heat is not to be recommended. Mo
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Day 29 Ponferrada - Cacabelos (16km)
Big day today. John arrives later on in Ponferrada so Mo is staying here to wait for him and I am going on. This gives them some time together and for john to acclimatise. I'm looking forward to tackling some of the camino alone although today will be cushioned by setting off with Ruth.
Left Mo with Sue Kenney's book - Me and my camino - or something? We met her yesterday doing the camino backwards not knowing she was a writer. Found the book at the refuge. She was burning buffalo sage in a shell which she brought from Alberta. We should have benefitted from the experience of inhaling the smoke - cleansing of body, mind, spirit and all that.
11am Ruth and I have done about 10km and have arrived in Camponaraya where there is a free WiFi zone so can update as you go! Good excuse for a rest! Bought first crop cherries on the way from a street seller and have now got to eat them all to avoid carrying further. Have come through lots of productive Market gardens but so far today all Tarmac. Plays hell with the knees. Unusual for Spain,ore reminiscent of France.
We've passed the 200km left to do mark!
Albergue is tops! rooms (cabins) for 2 people only and no bunks! Hurrah! All very practically built around the church.
The routine in this hot weather is to walk till about 2pm. Usually off by 8am and several stops for coffee, rests etc. Then shower and clothes wash - everything you've been wearing cos it is so sweaty. Most of the Albergues have a row of stone sinks outside with cold water and built in washboards for scrubbing. My nan would be impressed at my tecnique.
Had Pulpo (Octopus) for dinner.
John arrived from Irun after a marathon train journey from Hebden Bridge to Ponferrada via a couchette overnight from Paris. Really good to see him. Now he begins the walk. Will be a day behind Jenny but hope to catch up. Spent Thursday heading off to Villafranca but stopped at Cacabelos. Couldn´t resist the two person cabin in an eco building in the grounds of the church with solar heated showers. Decided to leave at 5.30am and join the early risers because the heat is in intolerable in the afternoon. Could barely move today. John a bit aprehensive about walking but so far managed first day. Mo
Left Mo with Sue Kenney's book - Me and my camino - or something? We met her yesterday doing the camino backwards not knowing she was a writer. Found the book at the refuge. She was burning buffalo sage in a shell which she brought from Alberta. We should have benefitted from the experience of inhaling the smoke - cleansing of body, mind, spirit and all that.
11am Ruth and I have done about 10km and have arrived in Camponaraya where there is a free WiFi zone so can update as you go! Good excuse for a rest! Bought first crop cherries on the way from a street seller and have now got to eat them all to avoid carrying further. Have come through lots of productive Market gardens but so far today all Tarmac. Plays hell with the knees. Unusual for Spain,ore reminiscent of France.
We've passed the 200km left to do mark!
Albergue is tops! rooms (cabins) for 2 people only and no bunks! Hurrah! All very practically built around the church.
The routine in this hot weather is to walk till about 2pm. Usually off by 8am and several stops for coffee, rests etc. Then shower and clothes wash - everything you've been wearing cos it is so sweaty. Most of the Albergues have a row of stone sinks outside with cold water and built in washboards for scrubbing. My nan would be impressed at my tecnique.
Had Pulpo (Octopus) for dinner.
John arrived from Irun after a marathon train journey from Hebden Bridge to Ponferrada via a couchette overnight from Paris. Really good to see him. Now he begins the walk. Will be a day behind Jenny but hope to catch up. Spent Thursday heading off to Villafranca but stopped at Cacabelos. Couldn´t resist the two person cabin in an eco building in the grounds of the church with solar heated showers. Decided to leave at 5.30am and join the early risers because the heat is in intolerable in the afternoon. Could barely move today. John a bit aprehensive about walking but so far managed first day. Mo
Day 28 Acebo - Ponferrada
Mo with Sue (facebook - Suseya) who was
travelling in the opposite direction
The beautiful downhill path to Molinoseca
The mountain village of Acebo
Walking through another mountain village
Expensive breakfast at the Albergue followed by a beautiful downhill walk to Molinaseca. Narrow paths bordered with dog roses, rock roses, yellow and white broom. Definitely a path not to be missed. I texted Bernt to tell him he has got to do the camino again as he missed the best bit!
Ran into Ruth again st coffee break at Molinoseca and walked into Ponferrada with her.
We stayed in the large municipal hostel that sleeps 200 - fortunately in small rooms. Much prefer smaller, less impersonal but this is all there is. For the first time we had to queue up on arrival. It was hot, we were tired so it was hot. One of the hospitaliers brought cold drinks to the queue.
After showers, we went to a restaurant for a late Spamish lunch with Ruth and shared a table with Argentinian Pablo who is not a pilgrim but on a years travel in Europe.
We stayed in the restaurant until 5 ish, then went to see the Knights Templar castle that's being restored. Found the first outdoor shop and bought a new head torch. Got money out as last big place with these facilities for a while.
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Day 27 Rabinal to Acebo 16Km
Manjarin Albergue - 202 kms to go!
People doing it on horseback
It was the most spectacular days walk so far on this camino. We were surrounded by mountains and the path wound up the hillside that was covered in yellow and white broom. We reached the Cruz de Ferra where people have traditionally brought stones from home. We hadn´t but there was a collection of stones, photo´s, notes etc. It was a very moving sight. Then a coach load of Spanish school children arrived and swarmed all over it, picking up carefully laid stones and notes to take away. Jen decided to leave a letter for Tom, her son, just in case he should ever walk the camino but she waited until the children had gone.
At Manjarin we met Tomas, who has swelled the population of this hamlet to one, the rest is derelict. He has an alburgue there that is very basic but a little bit of hippiness on the trail.
We reached the highest point of the camino at Collado de las Antenas 1515m. The day was hot but there was a wind that kept us cool until we started to descend. This made up for our lost views over the Pyrenees. Usually this point is shrouded in mist. At Acebo, a small hilltop village we stopped. The heat was sweltering and we had had enough. There seemed to be a rush for beds. Mo
Coming up to the Cruz de Ferro
That's us on either side of the Cruz de Ferro
See the stuff people leave
And another at the iron cross ...
Day 26 Astorga to Rabinal del Camino 20km
Inside the church at Rabanal
The garden at the Albergue in Rabanal
Afternoon tea at the 'English'
refuge in Rabanal
The Albergue at Rabanal
Another beautiful walk out of Astorga, gradually climbing to Rabinal, a typical hilltop village with wooden balconies to all the houses. It was a hot day and we arrived exhausted. Decided to stay at the only English Alburgue on this camino run by the Confraternity of St James. It was one of the nicest alburgues we have been to. It had a large orchard to sit in, quiet space and they gave us our own bedroom! Jenny told them about her panic attack in a top bunk! It was delightful.
The two hospitaliers served afternoon tea at 5pm and one of the hospitaliers was Alison Raju who has written guide books for the camino. She is a very modest but talented lady, who speaks four languages. We attended a Catholic service in the church opposite where they sang Gregorian chant, then off for supper with a couple from Canada who work for the salvation army. All comments about the church and faith were kept to ourselves.
Bernt phoned us that evening telling us that in no circumstances were we to walk downhill to Ponferrada. People were arriving with injuries. We took the telephone number of the local taxi firm. Mo
Day 25 Hospital de Orbego - Astorga
Entering Astorga - they know what pilgrims will need!
Mo, Tao and Danny (in front)
- the last to leave the hostel
An astounding days walking
A really astounding days walking. Not too long a day so we could appreciate it too.
We stopped in Astorga - another stunning cathedral! We must be getting a bit blasé about the extent of the monumental edifices we are seeing because it gets a bit more difficult to muster up wondrous hyberbole each time.
We visited the museum situated in the Gaudi building next door to the Cathedral. It was great to see the inside of one of his buildings. A lot better than the contents in fact.
We stayed in the. Albergue de Javier a large private one. A large dormitory again. I've mislaid my head torch - a mini disaster. No trading in bed.
Had dinner in the Gaudi Hotel - a meal deal for €11.50 with a pilgrim ticket.
Astorga is a chocolate city - bought some very dark stuff with goji berries - emergency food!
Cathedral at Astorga
Gaudi building in Astorga that houses museum
En route to Astorga - a pilgrim scarecrow
9.30am Coffee stop for us and
beer stop for Swedes Jonas and Anders
Day 24 Villar de Mazeriffe - Hospital de Orbego
After just 13 kms of morning walking, we have definitely landed on our feet again in the beautiful Refugio Parroquial de Orbigo. The German Confraternity have paid for renovation and it is looked after very well. The place looks very loved. We arrived about 2pm after making a fruitless detour to find an Albergue in woodland. It was closed.
But alls well that ends well. We've just eaten our picnic lunch in the cherry orchard garden of the refuge and it is idyllic. And it looks like it's garden, grass and books on the agenda for the rest of the afternoon.
What's more we have landed bottom bunks in a 6 bedded room for women only. This generally minimises early morning disruption and with women only there is usually less snoring going on.
We are not doing long distances at the moment having made up a bit of time getting the train/ bus in and out of Leon. We can afford to take it a bit easy cos we realised last evening that we've just past the 1000 km mark so we deserve pilgrim points.
Both Mo and I thought that we would be shadows of our former selves by now and would be returning home with waif like figures. But no - despite all the physical exertion, the calories in are stll exceeding the calories out! But we are stronger and fitter. I now feel better than I have done throughout the whole trip. I seem to have walked off the knee, ankle and toe pain and don't take pain killers any more. I don't know how that works but it such a bonus to be walking pain free at last. Mo is still suffering with tendinitis in one leg but is managing with strapping up and painkillers.
This morning we walked through arable land again, a lot of complicated irrigation going on. Wheat fields, young maize crops and some kind of beet crop. Lots of beautiful wildflower hedgerows - still poppies, daisies, lavender, Viper's Bugloss (Ruth identified this)
This hostel is run by the Knights of St John, the Caballeros Hospitalarios de San Juan, who have always maintained a pilgrim hospital here with the parish church. The very pleasant young Portuguese hospitalier is doing a 5 year (paid) stint of 'devotion' and told us his family have been members of the order for 800 years. Their symbol is a Maltese cross and it is a secular brotherhood (although there are women too, he says) This is a world I hitherto knew nothing about. I am still very hazy. Obviously havn't read the right books. Maybe we are on some kind of film set.
Danny showed up tonight. He was supposed to be walking on but he is ill. He woke up feeling poorly and hasn't eaten all day. There is mixed opinions as to what is wrong with him and therefore what treatment he needs. The lovely hospitalier says he has been drinking contaminated water from the fountain 10k back. Maybe he is dehydrated. Is he hung over? Or is it infected blisters?
But alls well that ends well. We've just eaten our picnic lunch in the cherry orchard garden of the refuge and it is idyllic. And it looks like it's garden, grass and books on the agenda for the rest of the afternoon.
What's more we have landed bottom bunks in a 6 bedded room for women only. This generally minimises early morning disruption and with women only there is usually less snoring going on.
We are not doing long distances at the moment having made up a bit of time getting the train/ bus in and out of Leon. We can afford to take it a bit easy cos we realised last evening that we've just past the 1000 km mark so we deserve pilgrim points.
Both Mo and I thought that we would be shadows of our former selves by now and would be returning home with waif like figures. But no - despite all the physical exertion, the calories in are stll exceeding the calories out! But we are stronger and fitter. I now feel better than I have done throughout the whole trip. I seem to have walked off the knee, ankle and toe pain and don't take pain killers any more. I don't know how that works but it such a bonus to be walking pain free at last. Mo is still suffering with tendinitis in one leg but is managing with strapping up and painkillers.
This morning we walked through arable land again, a lot of complicated irrigation going on. Wheat fields, young maize crops and some kind of beet crop. Lots of beautiful wildflower hedgerows - still poppies, daisies, lavender, Viper's Bugloss (Ruth identified this)
This hostel is run by the Knights of St John, the Caballeros Hospitalarios de San Juan, who have always maintained a pilgrim hospital here with the parish church. The very pleasant young Portuguese hospitalier is doing a 5 year (paid) stint of 'devotion' and told us his family have been members of the order for 800 years. Their symbol is a Maltese cross and it is a secular brotherhood (although there are women too, he says) This is a world I hitherto knew nothing about. I am still very hazy. Obviously havn't read the right books. Maybe we are on some kind of film set.
Danny showed up tonight. He was supposed to be walking on but he is ill. He woke up feeling poorly and hasn't eaten all day. There is mixed opinions as to what is wrong with him and therefore what treatment he needs. The lovely hospitalier says he has been drinking contaminated water from the fountain 10k back. Maybe he is dehydrated. Is he hung over? Or is it infected blisters?
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