Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Day 1 St Jean Pied de Port - Orisson
Strangely, I slept really well in the refuge - much better than the
previous night in the Novotel at Birmingham Airport.
We had a fabulous communal meal cooked by Jacque's wife - vegetable
soup, local boudin (black pudding) served with potato purée and apple
sauce, brebis cheese and prunes in red wine with vanilla sauce.
Jenny might have slept well but the rest of us struggled.
We headed off to Orisson in the pouring rain quickly turning to sleet
as we climbed higher. The fantastic views were obscured by thick mist.
We were booked in to a tent. Not surprisingly it was not feasible,
they offered us beds in the laundry, no heating, shared double bed
toilet across a road. We said no so we were whisked off back down the
mountain to a four bedded room with a log fire and great facilities.
They will pick us up tomorrow and take us back to walk over to
Roncavalles. Mo
Jean Jacques, the patron of Orisson, regaled us with stories of deaths
on the mountain. People ignoring advice or worse getting sloshed and
setting off in gung ho fashion. He says today may be the worst and
tomorrow it might start to improve. If it does he is going to guide us
and the other pilgrims staying at Orisson over the mountain. On verra!
previous night in the Novotel at Birmingham Airport.
We had a fabulous communal meal cooked by Jacque's wife - vegetable
soup, local boudin (black pudding) served with potato purée and apple
sauce, brebis cheese and prunes in red wine with vanilla sauce.
Jenny might have slept well but the rest of us struggled.
We headed off to Orisson in the pouring rain quickly turning to sleet
as we climbed higher. The fantastic views were obscured by thick mist.
We were booked in to a tent. Not surprisingly it was not feasible,
they offered us beds in the laundry, no heating, shared double bed
toilet across a road. We said no so we were whisked off back down the
mountain to a four bedded room with a log fire and great facilities.
They will pick us up tomorrow and take us back to walk over to
Roncavalles. Mo
Jean Jacques, the patron of Orisson, regaled us with stories of deaths
on the mountain. People ignoring advice or worse getting sloshed and
setting off in gung ho fashion. He says today may be the worst and
tomorrow it might start to improve. If it does he is going to guide us
and the other pilgrims staying at Orisson over the mountain. On verra!
4th April St Jean Pied de Port
Oh dear it's absolutely freezing here. Cold and wet and the pass over
the Pyrenees is closed due to snow! Apparently pilgrims had to be
helicoptered off the mountain this morning if they were fool enough to try and get through.
To add insult to injury Mo and I have prematurely gotten rid of a lot of warm clothes because we were fed up with carrying them. And it was so hot last week it was difficicult to imagine it would ever get cold again. Oh for the cosy Paramo trousers that we discarded four weeks ago. We have had to go to the only very expensive outdoor shop and buy more stuff! I could weep when I think of the stuff I have left at home that I really need now.
Plans for the next few days are unclear. As it stands, we are going to attempt to do the climb up to Orisson tomorrow where the patron Jean Jacques will advise us whether we can go on, should come back or whether we can take a different but less scenic route.
We are staying in Refuge Kaserna, which is a newly renovated and very comfortable place donated to the parish for pilgrims by a lady who died a couple of years ago and whose photo is on the wall in the dining room. It is managed very well by Jacques and Monique who are volunteer wardens.
We are in a dormitory of 10 - Austrian, Danish and Swiss fellow pilgrims - all very jolly!
the Pyrenees is closed due to snow! Apparently pilgrims had to be
helicoptered off the mountain this morning if they were fool enough to try and get through.
To add insult to injury Mo and I have prematurely gotten rid of a lot of warm clothes because we were fed up with carrying them. And it was so hot last week it was difficicult to imagine it would ever get cold again. Oh for the cosy Paramo trousers that we discarded four weeks ago. We have had to go to the only very expensive outdoor shop and buy more stuff! I could weep when I think of the stuff I have left at home that I really need now.
Richard and Pam arriving in Bayonne to join us for a week
I met up with Richard and Pam in Birmingham and we fllew to Biarritz very early on Tuesday morning. As soon as we stepped off the plane Richard commented that we should have gone to Scarborough! Very grey, overcast, chilly wind and not enough clothes! Richard and Pam have come very well equipped cos they checked the weather forecast and assumed we would have the sense to do the same! But no! Having carried fleeces and thermals needlessly around France for weeks we recklessly jettisoned them throwing caution to the wind.Plans for the next few days are unclear. As it stands, we are going to attempt to do the climb up to Orisson tomorrow where the patron Jean Jacques will advise us whether we can go on, should come back or whether we can take a different but less scenic route.
We are staying in Refuge Kaserna, which is a newly renovated and very comfortable place donated to the parish for pilgrims by a lady who died a couple of years ago and whose photo is on the wall in the dining room. It is managed very well by Jacques and Monique who are volunteer wardens.
We are in a dormitory of 10 - Austrian, Danish and Swiss fellow pilgrims - all very jolly!
Friday, April 30, 2010
30th April Gloucestershire
I'm staying at my mothers for this week definitely appreciating a resting up period. I rang the local doctors surgery for advice about who I should see in relation to my various aches and pains and was directed to a chiropracter. She gave me the once over and the good news is that I won't do any more damage by carrying on walking. The bad news is that when I get back I need to get a referral to an orthopaedic surgeon in relation to my big toe joint cos it's causing me to walk strangely putting undue pressure on the ankles and knees and so on and so forth. In the meantime it's Ibuprofen and ice packs. I've got a massage booked for Saturday for the shoulders.
I had a long chat with Pam (Parkinson) and Richard (Peters) yesterday to discuss plans for next week. I'm meeting up with them in Birmingham on Monday and we get an early flight out on Tuesday to Biarritz and if the onward transport fits we should be in St Jean for lunch. We're hoping to stay in a private refuge on Tuesday that provides a convivial communal evening meal and breakfast. They don't officially take bookings but if we or Mo can get there by 2pm to stake our claim we should be OK.
We have sensibly decided not to try to get to Roncevalles on Day 1 of the Spanish leg but to break the journey at Refuge Orisson. This is only 8 km but involves the steepest climb. That way we can leave leisurely late morning and let the early risers get their head start to Roncevalles. Orisson is already booked up but we can have a tent with matresses and all the extra covers we might need.
I've been checking out with phone provider how to update blog without running up huge bills. Seems I can type in notebook on phone offline and then copy and paste into blog when ready. Uses a fraction of MBs that way so I'll give it a whirl. Also need to turn off Data Roaming except when need access to Internet. Otherwise all sorts of Apps are accessing the Internet without asking me first. Voilà!
I had a long chat with Pam (Parkinson) and Richard (Peters) yesterday to discuss plans for next week. I'm meeting up with them in Birmingham on Monday and we get an early flight out on Tuesday to Biarritz and if the onward transport fits we should be in St Jean for lunch. We're hoping to stay in a private refuge on Tuesday that provides a convivial communal evening meal and breakfast. They don't officially take bookings but if we or Mo can get there by 2pm to stake our claim we should be OK.
We have sensibly decided not to try to get to Roncevalles on Day 1 of the Spanish leg but to break the journey at Refuge Orisson. This is only 8 km but involves the steepest climb. That way we can leave leisurely late morning and let the early risers get their head start to Roncevalles. Orisson is already booked up but we can have a tent with matresses and all the extra covers we might need.
I've been checking out with phone provider how to update blog without running up huge bills. Seems I can type in notebook on phone offline and then copy and paste into blog when ready. Uses a fraction of MBs that way so I'll give it a whirl. Also need to turn off Data Roaming except when need access to Internet. Otherwise all sorts of Apps are accessing the Internet without asking me first. Voilà!
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
27th April Birmingham New Street Station!
Here's Jenny back in Blighty pour une semaine. Got to get French out of the system now and do some intensive swotting up of Spanish ready for next week.
It is such a luxury to be able to update the blog anywhere and any time using the iPhone. It turned out to be far too expensive to use in France. I wonder what system our follower 'Kiwi Nomad' used for her comprensive blog in 2009? There is so much missing because of the long intervals and inevitably the moment passes. But huge thank you to Chris for uploading the photos which help fill the gaps.
I spent last night in an inelegant hotel near the airport in Biarritz. It turned out to be 2km from the airport but on a major dual carriageway with very scary fast traffic whipping up a wind past me as the sole nutty pedestrian. But I have just walked 500km through France so I was darned if I was going to get a taxi to take me a puny 2km! Definitely the most dangerous undertaking of the journey so far.
I've had many thoughts as to whether interrupting the pilgrimage at this point will affect the flow. It takes time to walk into the right frame of mind and more single minded pilgrims would say that doing the Camino in bits (which many people do) does not provide the same contemplative experience. But I'm pleased to have this small break and reflect on the last few weeks. My body is certainly grateful for a rest! I found sitting in the plane excruciating. Just couldn't keep still as I'm so used to being on the move. All my muscles are aching - it seems worse when I'm not moving.
Having experienced the pilgrim frenzy in St Jean, it is clear that the Spanish part of the journey is going to be a whole new ball game. More people, more nationalities, more communal living and more refuges/gites to choose from. So it feels good to me to punctuate it with a gap. Gives me a chance to offload more stuff. One set of clothes to walk in and one to change into. The more stuff you have the harder it is to keep track of in communal sleeping arrangements.
The last refuge in St Jean was a nightmare. People getting up from 4am onwards in order to beat the crowds and get up and over the Pyrenees in order to ensure a bed at the monastry in Roncevalles. Apparently, there are 150 beds - all in the same room no doubt. Mo and I were last to leave feeling absolutely shattered and feeling so relieved that we weren't scheduled to get over the mountain on that particular day!
As for me - Mo - I was picked up by Sharon and Paul and taken to Pamploma to spend a week in an appartment and hang out, walking, eating, sightseeing. Such a break from the daily routine of arriving at a destination, finding food, a bed and then a bed and food options for the following day. Not much time to say much on blogs. So it was photos every day from Jenny texted to Chris for him to keep the blog going. Throughout we have met people who have talked about the power of the camino and the coincidences that happen along the way. My coincidence is that my sister in law Kit happens to be in St Jean Pied de Port on 3rd May when I return to wait the return of the others. Kit is walking from the Atlantic to the Med. through the Pyrenees. Our itinerary was drawn up completely independently and we find ourselves in the same place at the same time. Make what you will.
I am beginning to realise that my French that was beginning to improve will be of little value in Spain. I am desperately learning basic phrases to get by. Sharon and Paul are helping and also ensuring that my walking muscles continue to work. Mo
It is such a luxury to be able to update the blog anywhere and any time using the iPhone. It turned out to be far too expensive to use in France. I wonder what system our follower 'Kiwi Nomad' used for her comprensive blog in 2009? There is so much missing because of the long intervals and inevitably the moment passes. But huge thank you to Chris for uploading the photos which help fill the gaps.
I spent last night in an inelegant hotel near the airport in Biarritz. It turned out to be 2km from the airport but on a major dual carriageway with very scary fast traffic whipping up a wind past me as the sole nutty pedestrian. But I have just walked 500km through France so I was darned if I was going to get a taxi to take me a puny 2km! Definitely the most dangerous undertaking of the journey so far.
I've had many thoughts as to whether interrupting the pilgrimage at this point will affect the flow. It takes time to walk into the right frame of mind and more single minded pilgrims would say that doing the Camino in bits (which many people do) does not provide the same contemplative experience. But I'm pleased to have this small break and reflect on the last few weeks. My body is certainly grateful for a rest! I found sitting in the plane excruciating. Just couldn't keep still as I'm so used to being on the move. All my muscles are aching - it seems worse when I'm not moving.
Having experienced the pilgrim frenzy in St Jean, it is clear that the Spanish part of the journey is going to be a whole new ball game. More people, more nationalities, more communal living and more refuges/gites to choose from. So it feels good to me to punctuate it with a gap. Gives me a chance to offload more stuff. One set of clothes to walk in and one to change into. The more stuff you have the harder it is to keep track of in communal sleeping arrangements.
The last refuge in St Jean was a nightmare. People getting up from 4am onwards in order to beat the crowds and get up and over the Pyrenees in order to ensure a bed at the monastry in Roncevalles. Apparently, there are 150 beds - all in the same room no doubt. Mo and I were last to leave feeling absolutely shattered and feeling so relieved that we weren't scheduled to get over the mountain on that particular day!
As for me - Mo - I was picked up by Sharon and Paul and taken to Pamploma to spend a week in an appartment and hang out, walking, eating, sightseeing. Such a break from the daily routine of arriving at a destination, finding food, a bed and then a bed and food options for the following day. Not much time to say much on blogs. So it was photos every day from Jenny texted to Chris for him to keep the blog going. Throughout we have met people who have talked about the power of the camino and the coincidences that happen along the way. My coincidence is that my sister in law Kit happens to be in St Jean Pied de Port on 3rd May when I return to wait the return of the others. Kit is walking from the Atlantic to the Med. through the Pyrenees. Our itinerary was drawn up completely independently and we find ourselves in the same place at the same time. Make what you will.
I am beginning to realise that my French that was beginning to improve will be of little value in Spain. I am desperately learning basic phrases to get by. Sharon and Paul are helping and also ensuring that my walking muscles continue to work. Mo
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Day 31 Ostabat - St Jean Pied de Port (21Km)
St Jean Pied de Port
We had a good days walking today - left about 9am and arrived at about 4.30pm. Everything has changed. The camino is an industry here! We went straight to the Accueil Pellerins and were allocated 2 bunks in a dormitory of 8. The others - an Italian couple, a Spanish girl and an Irish father and son are our room mates so far. They have all just arrived and will set off for Roncevalles tomorrow - a long mountainous and sometimes dangerous route. The Spanish girl who lives in the Findhorn Community in Scotland has got the most enormous sac as has the Italian fella. We have told them (us old hands!) that they won't manage and need to offload. I do feel really pleased that we have had this practice run to sort ourselves out.
The language spoken is now English - the more common tongue.
We are going to explore St Jeans for the evening. The refuge has no Kitchen faclities so we need to find some food!!
A demain ....
St Jean Pied de Port
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